It was a bit rough getting out to the big breaking waves but I managed to catch a few and even stood up on one! Got thrown off a few of the big ones and started riding the foam in the mid breaks.
The water was cold my wet suit (O'Neill Mutant 4/2) rocks! Apparently its one of the new style seams where its not a zip up, you have to climb into it. Takes some effort but no water got in, I was quite toasty.
Had lunch at this burrito stand that makes these things called UFOs, basically a high quality Crunch Wrap Supreme. Ridic!
Can't wait for tomorrow, going to wake up and run in a 10K race with my family and then hit the waves.