Last Day, Success!

It's vacay, I've been lazy and haven't kept up with the blog. Last weekend the waves were great. I was catching them consistently, the only problem was the amount of traffic out there. Lots of people in the water and they were much faster in setting up for the wave. So I bailed early many times.

We are heading back up to Philly today so I went down to the beach for one last sesh. The waves were only about knee to waist high. By most standards, not that good, great for a n00b like me tho. I was able to charge many waves, right after another. Stood up on 90% of them. It was a great way to end the trip. I consider it a success. I ready to move on from the foam training board to a proper longboard. OCNJ here I come!

Waves Bigger Today, Not As Successful

Yesterday waves were smaller but choppy. I was at about 70% success with the waves I caught.
Today the waves were bigger and get better throughout our session. By the time they were really good I was physically tapped out. Didn't fully ride any waves today. Fail. Tomorrow is another day.

Successful Day Yesterday, Off Today

Did 2 sessions yesterday. First session was my best with another 80% success rate. I took a break and went out again but the waves were rougher and too close together. I got thrown off of one right at the top. It was time to go in after that.

Taking today off to give my shoulders a break from the last 2 days of intense paddling.

Success Yesterday

Stood up and rode 80% of the waves I caught yesterday. The last wave was the best, I was super stable and even carved a bit! If I can keep that percentage up for the rest of the week I'll call it mission accomplished.

Back In The Water

Took the last 2 days off due to that foot injury. No more 10Ks for me. The board just fits in the Mini although it has to stick out the passenger window.

Soon...

...I will be out there. Just waiting for my board to show up.

Ready To Go...

Breakfast eaten, Dosed up on Aleve. Blisters sliced and drained. Liquid Bandage Applied, that stuff is amazing. IcyHot patches applied. Packed up, ready to get into the wetsuit. Dude, where's my ride???!???

Day 3 Begins

Looked at the surf cams, waves are great. Just waiting on my crew to head down to the beach.

Getting Ready For An Evening Sesh

Had a nap, blisters and sunburn feel a bit better. The waves are really good so we are heading out. Get to try out the new board!

Day 2: Early Morning Wakeup

I apparently got some sweet sunburn yesterday which made sleep fairly uncomfortable. I was supposed to wake up at 6 AM to get ready for the road race but since I wasn't sleeping well, I got up at 4 AM. I need to layer on the sunscreen and get some aloe later.

I hope the sunburn doesn't prevent me from getting in the water today, I bought a board more suitable for beginners yesterday that I'm itching to try out. It's a foam board that is apparently much more stable and always rides on top of the water due to its buoyancy which also makes paddling easier. The only downside is it does not ride well in really big waves.

A Successful First Day In The Water

It was a bit rough getting out to the big breaking waves but I managed to catch a few and even stood up on one! Got thrown off a few of the big ones and started riding the foam in the mid breaks.

The water was cold my wet suit (O'Neill Mutant 4/2) rocks! Apparently its one of the new style seams where its not a zip up, you have to climb into it. Takes some effort but no water got in, I was quite toasty.

Had lunch at this burrito stand that makes these things called UFOs, basically a high quality Crunch Wrap Supreme. Ridic!

Can't wait for tomorrow, going to wake up and run in a 10K race with my family and then hit the waves.

Getting Ready For Day 1 In The Water

AM Meditation to clear the mind.
AM Run to the beach to get the blood flowing.
Waves look great, people are already out. Dolphins are swimming with the surfers.
Gearing up in the wetsuit and heading to the beach!

I've Arrived!

Stage 1of the drive

All packed up, getting on the road

Day 0

Well, this is it. I'm about to begin my journey to Florida to learn to surf. I'm not coming back until I can consistently ride waves standing up.

Today I'm getting new tires on the whip and packing up. I'll be leaving tonight to stay at friends in the DC area. I'm splitting up the drive over a few days so that I A) don't go crazy and B) to stop and smell the roses in a few spots.

Can't wait to get started although I will miss my GF and cat lots.